Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple: Timings, Bharani and the Day Trip From Kochi
Kodungallur's Kurumba Bhagavathy temple is roughly 33km from Ernakulam. Its Kannaki legend, Bharani festival, timings and how to make the trip.
The Kodungallur Sree Kurumba Bhagavathy Temple is a Bhadrakali temple in Kodungallur, Thrissur district, about 33km from Ernakulam by one temple guide's count, and around 30km from Cochin International Airport. It is usually open from about 4am to noon and 4pm to 8pm, though times change for festivals. It is best known for the Bharani festival in the Malayalam month of Meenam, which falls in March or April, and for the Thalappoli festival in Makaram, in January or February.
- What is the speciality of Kodungallur Temple?
- Is Kodungallur a shakti peeth?
- What is the story behind Kodungallur Bharani?
- What time does Kodungallur Temple open?
- How do you get there from Kochi?
What is the speciality of Kodungallur Temple?
The goddess is Bhadrakali, a fierce form of Kali, also called Sri Kurumba and Kodungallur Amma, the Mother of Kodungallur. The idol faces north and has eight hands. The temple is the head of 64 Bhadrakali kavus in Malabar, and it is tied to the story of Kannaki, the heroine of the Tamil epic tradition; Kerala Tourism calls it the second abode of Kannaki and says her idol was found about 1,800 years ago by the Chera king Cheran Chenkuttuvan. Another tradition credits Parasurama with founding the temple, and Adi Sankaracharya is believed to have consecrated five chakras that hold its power.
Kerala Tourism describes the temple as spread over about 10 acres in typical Kerala style. It was managed by the Kodungallur Kovilakam royal family until the Cochin Devaswom Board took over in 1950. Chicken sacrifice, once part of its rituals, has been banned since 1978.
Is Kodungallur a shakti peeth?
Kerala Tourism lists it as one of the state's Shaktipeedhams, seats of the goddess's power. So the answer is yes, in the sense Kerala Tourism uses the word.
What is the story behind Kodungallur Bharani?
Bharani is the temple's most famous festival, and its loudest. It runs from the Bharani star in Kumbham to seven days after Bharani in Meenam. The rituals you will hear about:
- Kozhikkallu Moodal: a ritual that traditionally involved the sacrifice of cocks; chicken sacrifice at the temple has been banned since 1978.
- Kavu Theendal: the climax, overseen by the King of Kodungallur, when velichappads, the oracles, run around the temple waving swords.
- Chandanapoti Charthal: the anointing of the deity with sandalwood paste.
Be warned: Bharani is not a gentle temple visit. The crowds are enormous and intense, and it is no place for small children or anyone who dislikes being jostled. For the temple itself, an ordinary weekday is the better visit.
The calmer festival is Thalappoli, a four-day festival that Wikipedia places in Makaram, beginning on the evening of Makara Sankranthi, with an elephant procession.
What time does Kodungallur Temple open?
| Session | Usual hours |
|---|---|
| Morning | About 4am to 12 noon |
| Evening | About 4pm to 8pm |
| Busiest days | Tuesdays and Fridays, and the Sabarimala season |
These hours come from a single listing and shift on festival days, so if you are travelling specifically for darshan, check with the temple first.
How do you get there from Kochi?
The temple is about 1.5km south-east of the Kodungallur bus stand, so a bus to Kodungallur and a short auto ride works. By rail, the stations one temple guide points to are Irinjalakuda or Ernakulam, neither of them on the doorstep, so the bus or a car is simpler. Kodungallur is on the Muziris heritage trail, so pair it with our Muziris day trip guide, or stop at Pallipuram Fort on the way up through Vypin. For more temple trips, see Guruvayur and Things To Do.
Written By
Haila Kochi Editorial Team
Part of the Haila Kochi editorial team, covering the food, business, lifestyle, and people that make Kochi what it is.
